 |
Web Hosting by Netfirms | Free Domain Names by Netfirms |
|
|
|
When the number and/or varieties of grapes is insufficient, cuttings of the desired varieties are taken when the vines are fully dormant, usually from mid December through March as weather allows.
The cuttings are taken from fully ripened canes, trimmed to three buds and then wrapped in moist peat or damp newspaper. The the bundles can be put in plastic bags and stored until spring. Storage require the cuttings be kept moist and cool. Keeping the bundles in a refrigerator is satisfactory for small quantities. For large numbers, the bundles can be buried outside in an area sheltered from direct sun.
Once the weather warms the soil enough, cuttings can be placed in trenches about 2-3 inches apart with the top bud flush with or slightly above the soil line, then the trench is back filled and the cuttings are watered in and kept moist until they can be placed out in the vineyard, usually in the late summer or early fall. A more detailed description of growing vines from cuttings indoors can be found by clicking here.
Trellis construction involves laying out the vine rows, then digging post holes to recieve the posts. The posts are 8 feet and are set 2 feet deep. This allows a top wire to be at 6 feet for a high cordon. At Sugar River Vineyard, the rows are 10 feet apart, with posts spaced 24 feet apart. Our vines are 8 feet apart, though growers often opt for more dense plantings with vines 4 to 6 feet apart. Once the posts are in place, then wires can be placed, with the lower one at 36-42 inches and an upper wire at 70-72 inches. This can vary, however, depending on the vigor of the grape variety and pruning system most appropriate for the variety.
 |
| This is an unpruned Riesling vine in early spring that has recently been raised from being covered to protect it from extreme cold. Some of the mulch covering is still in place beneath the trellis. Note the low wire. This variety is trained along the bottom wire in order to make it easier to bend the trunks to the ground next fall for winter covering. The new shoots are then tied to the upper wires for optimum sun exposure. |
There are many methods of pruning grape vines. The choice made by the grower is dependent on many factors, but the bottom line is the pruning method(s) must provide a balance between leaf area and crop load.
At Sugar River Vineyard, the vines need multiple trunks for renewal as winter injury is a problem. Cordon pruning is also difficult, because permanent cordons are difficult to keep alive on many varieties. Long cane pruning offers the best balance in our vineyard with the canes tied along a wire at about 30-40 inches high and new growth trained up, or canes tied along a 72 inch high wire and trained downwards, the choice depending on vine variety.
 |
| An example of long cane pruning with a third renewal trunk tied to the top wire. |
In order to bring fruit through to the ripeness needed for making good wine, the grapes need to be
protected against the various insect pests as well diseases endemic to the midwest. The picture at the left shows the midsummer damage to the foliage caused by feeding Japanese beetles. Photosynthesis is interrupted slowing both the ripening of grapes and ripening of the wood needed for winter survival.
As the grapes ripen, they become susceptible to damage from late season rain. Increased vascular pressure from the rain results in the berries cracking followed by Yellow Jacket and Bald Faced hornets and Asian Lady Beetle feeding on individual berries. Note the insects on Baco grapes including the Bald Faced hornet (white spots) in the upper center and honey bee hovering on left center.
At Sugar River Vineyard, a spray program is used primarily to control fungus diseases such as Black Rot, Phomopsis, Crown Gall, various mildews, and the list could go on. The grapes are sprayed about every 10 days, but more often if there is a rainy period.
Crown Gall
Crown gall is a virus disease that attacks the vine when there is damage to the surface of the wood, usually from physical abrasion such as mower damage. However, severe winter conditions can cause freeze damage allowing the onset of crown gall.
The damage here was most likely caused by rider mower damage the previous growing season.
For more information on pests of grapevines click on the following reference and select information on grapes. http://nysipm.cornell.edu/factsheets
Grapes are very forgiving when it comes to soil requirements, as long as the site is well drained. At the Sugar River Vineyard, the soil is a mix of very sandy soil with a limestone base. The limestone bed ranges from 20 inches in a few eroded places to 5 or more feet beneath the surface. In addition, the soil of the vineyard in places is old road fill. At one time a county road ran through the vineyard until the road was reconfigured in the late sixties or early seventies. Digging post holes is always an adventure.
There is no water available for the vineyard except the normal rainfall of northern Illinois. Since grapevines have roots that run deep, they do well even in the driest of summers. The exception to this is newly planted vines, whose root structure has not developed enough to survive without supplemental water. So, during the weeks without rain, they are supplied with about an inch of water per week. One gallon milk jugs full of tap water and carried to the vineyard is the high tech solution to the problem.
The aisles between the rows are mowed on a regular basis and over time, natural grasses have replaced the annual weeds in the aisles so there is now a sod covering. The area underneath the trellis is difficult to mow, but is kept clean using a spray of Roundup herbicide in the spring, and a string trimmer thereafter.
Some of the older literature, recommends clean cultivation between the rows. The primary reason for this is elimination of competetion for water and plant nutrients by weeds. However, at Sugar River Vineyard, a sod covering is felt to be essential to minimize erosion of the sandy soil and to moderate the soil temperature, particularly in the early spring.
Clean cultivation causes the soil to rapildly warm due to
solar heat, which in turn causes early bud growth. This is fine
in a mild climate the does not experience late spring frosts.
In the midwest these late spring frosts are one of the most damaging
aspects of trying to grow grapes in this climate. Any cultural
practice that delays growth in the spring is advantageous. The
picture shown here was taken in the spring showing the results
of frost damage. There was a significant
frost two days previous to the time the picture was taken 
and the spur on the upper left
has a 2" bud that is brown in color due to being killed by
the frost. However the leaves and bud on the spur on the upper
right are light green and show little or no damage by the cold.
Vines whose buds had not pushed leaves were not injured by the
frost.
Soil fertility is judged by the conditions of the vines, and on occasion, a low nitrogen top dressing such as 10-10-10 is applied in the early spring in a narrow band under the trellis wires. Foliar spraying with a soluble fertilizer during the regular applications of fungicides is also done. Petiole analysis of the vine is one of the most accurate ways to evaluate whether or not there is a mineral deficiency.
